Crossed off one of my top three adventures on this trip, I GOT TO CLIMB THE GREAT WALL!!! :) Ill come back to that later but I will forewarn you that this is going to be a long post, apologies in advance
The first port we pulled into in China was Shanghai. The port itself had a really pretty view! There were a bunch of cool shaped buildings and towers encircling us that were lit up really pretty at night. Our first task when we got to China was to head straight to the train station to try to get tickets to Beijing. For the past couple weeks everyone and anyone from students to lifelong learners to the inter-port students who lived in China had told us there was no way in hell we would be getting train tickets to anywhere in China if we didnt purchase them in advance, which we did not. However I had gotten the idea of getting train tickets once I got there through a student on the ship who had studied in China for a semester and traveled there extensively before so I of course disregarded all of the other peoples negative response to our idea. Eventually, I found my friend Catie, who like me, thought what they said didnt matter and we would find a way to get to the Great Wall somehow, that it may just take us longer to get there or back to Hong Kong. In the end, two of my friends Deirdre and Rachel heard the cheap prices we would be doing this for and skeptically decided to come with us. It wasnt until the moment that we got off the ship and saw how many other people were headed to the train station that I had my first thoughts of doubt that we may not be able to get there
Regardless of the doubt, we spent ten minutes trying to communicate to a cab driver we wanted to get to the train station and then stuffed five of us in a four-person cab as we took off. Let me tell you, it was NOTHING like riding in a cab in the U.S.! Think of the WORST driver you have ever driven with or seen and now multiply that by seven or eight and imagine a whole road filled of that type of driver as well and then you will get an idea of what this short cab drive was like. Not only did I fear for all of our lives, but also even more so for the many poor pedestrians we almost took out and killed on the way there. I found myself gasping, closing my eyes, holding my breath, and holding onto Deirdre for about 95 % of the trip. Let me tell you, THAT was an experience within itself!
Once we got to the train station we got in the English speaking booth line and got up to the counter where they were not only able to seat all four of us together but we were also able to pick any time we wanted to get to Beijing the following night. We were all thrilled (me being probably the most excited because I had been so adamant we would be fine doing this that I would have looked ridiculous had we not been). With our tickets in hand we set out to explore for the rest of the day.
We started off the day by getting lunch at a dumpling place across the street. Then we hopped in another cab to get Bund Street, which was supposedly the best place to shop in Shanghai. It was at this point that we experienced our first touristy moment in China: we were completely ripped off by the cab driver. It had cost us about 30 cents each not even to get to the train station and ended up costing us $3 dollars each on the way back. Mind you I realized $3 is practically nothing for a cab ride, but in China, that price is absurd! You can take a cab 20 minutes away and it comes out to about a dollar per person. Needless to say the cab driver had gotten us good he had seen we were trying to get another cab driver to understand where we wanted to go for about five minutes and once he saw us completely frustrated he came over and spoke English to us and named a price that nobody really listened to because we were all so happy someone understood us finally.
Once we got to Bund Street we walked around looking for this huge black market center with no luck of finding it so we continued to wander down random streets just shopping. Finally, we encountered a little girl who was so excited to use her English that she ran up to us and asked us if there was anything we were looking for or she could help us with. She was so adorable the whole time, her face lit up with excitement as she told us where to find the market we were looking for. What was cuter than the girl herself was the look of pride on her parents faces as she chatted quickly on with us in English. Taking her directions, we found the black market, which was enormous! There were so many shops it wasnt even funny! We never would have found it if it hadnt been for that girl because from the outside you couldnt even tell there were more stores inside. You had to go through the outside stores to get to the inner mall that was many levels high and filled with goods! The shops closed at four that day due to the New Year so my only purchase was a pair of wool socks to keep my feet from falling off the rest of the trip!
The second day Deirdre and I did a trip through the ship called Tasting the Daily Life of a Shanghai Citizen. The trip was awesome. We started off by going to a residential community where we would get to go inside an Elder People Club as they called it. Here we learned a bit about life as a Chinese and Shanghai citizen from the Neighborhood Committee. After speaking with them and drinking tea in their large, traditional cups we got a tour through the whole facility and then hopped back on the bus to check out their local free market where they do their daily food shopping. It was here that I saw some of the most disturbing sights of China; I gagged multiple times throughout our tour. This market knew of all the ways to make food look the least appetizing possible, and displayed the food in that manor. Not only were there dead fish hanging to dry from the ceiling to dry, but behind the fresh cut meat were the animals cut up and hanging from one of their hind legs from the wall or pieces of their faces displayed on the table in buckets right next to the meat for example there was an entire bucket filled with cow noses right at the front of one of the tables. It was by far one of the most disturbing places Ive been too and the smells were horrific. It is a place I am glad I saw once but have absolutely no plans to ever go back in one again. While we waited for people to finish up in the market, I looked at a different market across the street and found all five seasons of lost there for only $4! I finally got to finish what Mia and I started watching this past semester, which I was so happy about!!
Next we took the bus to visit our host family who was preparing lunch for us. We split up into groups of eight and went inside to meet our families. The lunch was delicious! Our host went over the top and cooked us so many traditional Chinese dishes! When we first got there, there were about eight or nine dishes already sitting in the center of the table. They were all sitting on a lazy Suzan in the middle of the circular table, which was actually a really good idea for dinner parties because it makes it really easy for each guest to reach all the plates without having to reach over others or passing the plates a bunch of times. We were all so thrilled to have all of that food and only continued to be more thankful when our host brought out ten other plates over the next hour or so. We ate wonton soup, duck, spring rolls, rice, General Tsos chicken, green beans, snap peas in a sauce, tomatoes, robins eggs, pork, sea cucumber, beef balls, shrimp, fried chicken, winter fruit and pumpkin fritters for dessert and that is only to name a few. By the end of lunch we were all stuffed to the max as the host pleaded with us to keep eating. It was a real treat!
After our meal with our host we saw a tour of that area of Shanghai and then as a surprise our tour guide took us back to the black market we had been at the day before! I got so many things for so cheap like new Uggs, long champ purses, an iPod shuffle and a North Face hiking backpack to climb the great wall with! It was amazing to see how inexpensive things were! Once we got back to the ship we unloaded all the purchases we got quickly, packed our bags for Beijing, grabbed some dinner and then headed off to the train station. We met a man at the train station who was originally from Pittsburgh but lived in China for a few years who told us all about hostels once we got to Beijing and let us know we were in fact waiting for the right train. Finally we boarded our train, which looked more like an airplane than a train in America would. It had two seats on one side and three seats on the other and each row of seats had a ridiculous amount of legroom. We lucked out with seating on this ride because the man who sat in the only open seat in our row ended up being so helpful to us. We were talking with him and telling him our travel plans and had mentioned we would be taking the train back to Hong Kong from Beijing when he interjected and brought it to our attention that there was no such train. He gave us the name of a city just outside Hong Kong, which we had to travel to first before traveling across the water to Hong Kong by foot so that we could go through customs and even wrote out in Chinese what route we wanted to take so we could easily get the tickets. After that, the train ride flew by since it was an overnight train that was only ten hours long.
The next morning we arrived in Beijing at 7 a.m. and once again immediately set out to find tickets for our return trip to Hong Kong except this time, things were not as easy. We discovered the people in this part of Beijing were not as American-friendly as we had found in all the other places. When we got to the ticket booth and showed the woman the card our train friend had written out for us, she told us that there were no tickets and we had to go to another station. I was convinced that I had seen seats available and she just wasnt selling them to us (we had heard from Chinese students that this happens). As we were discussing this a man behind us offered to help us try to get them. Pretty soon we were watching him bang the window and practically spit on it because he was so angry at what the woman was saying. When he turned back around he told us that we should go to the west station because there was bad service here. We all knew then that what I had thought earlier was correct: they would not sell us tickets because we were American.
At this point we headed outside to try to find a bus or cab to get to the other train station but found nobody outside liked us much more than inside. Nobody was willing to help us and the few who seemed to want to help were only trying to scam us. We had people try to take us in unmarked cars as taxis where they wouldnt use meters so that they could charge us ridiculously high prices. When we asked for them to use the meter they laughed in our faces. At this point we headed back inside because we were frustrated and freezing not that inside was any warmer because it was not heated at all. Finally someone who spoke English told us to use the subway station to get there, which we ended up doing. When we got there we were redirected from booth to booth, continuously being told that there were no seats available until the 25th, which was useless to us since the ship would have left Hong Kong by then and we would have to fly to Vietnam. We asked if we could take connecting trains instead, but quickly found there is no such thing in China. We then used our fallback plan: we would catch a train back to Shanghai and then fly to Hong Kong, which would still be pretty inexpensive. Unfortunately we found that there were no tickets to Shanghai either. At this point we started getting nervous. Finally we were told to go to the English-speaking booth where we were told we could get standing room only tickets, which we gratefully took. To put it in perspective, this train was a 25 hour ride so standing was in no means ideal but we figured it wouldnt be so bad because after the night most people would get off and then we could sleep in their seats during the day. As it turns out, it did not work that way, but youll hear about that in a bit
Now that the tickets were out of the way we started our quest to find a hostel. With a map in head we walked towards our destination . . . only to find that neither of the hostels we were looking for were there. We decided to turn down a random street and just hope for the best there or at the very least find a large hotel that could give us information. It ended up being the perfect street to turn down because immediately on our right was an international travel store. We rushed in there only to find out that they did not speak English. Bummed, we headed back into the street where a man tapped me on the shoulder saying Great Wall? and showing me a brochure. We all looked at each other and then asked the guy a few simple questions but found he spoke little English. All we knew was it was 150 Yuan (relatively $22) and we were supposed to get back at 7 p.m. We decided that we could always find a hostel later and skeptically hopped on the tour. While waiting for the bus to leave we saw Semester at Sea students who we knew were doing the Great Wall leave on a bus from right where we were so we were immediately at ease.
Our tour was way cooler than we had ever imagined. First we stopped at the Great Wall. We got to hike so many sections of it! The steps were insane. They were all different sizes and depths. No two steps were alike, some were incredibly small and some were so tall you had to grab onto the step above to pull yourself up. It gave the wall much more character than I would have originally thought. As we continued to hike up it there were towers every so often that you could go in and look out of! It was a really neat experience. All along the wall as you hiked up were vendors on the flat parts stationed theyre trying to sell you all kinds of souvenirs. It was an incredible view to look out and see different parts of the Great Wall stretching out all around you as far as the eye can see and it was a whole other experience to look down and see how far the ground was from where you were standing. At one of the higher parts of the wall, Deirdre and I were having Catie take a picture of us jumping in the air on the Wall. When we were finished I heard a tap on my shoulder and two giggling girls were motioning for us to take a picture with their camera of them doing the same thing. When I agreed they were immediately so happy and giddy, giggling like children. That interaction was my favorite part of the Great Wall. When I got back on the bus, I was elated, ecstatic I had just done one of my top three activities of this trip!!
After getting back on the bus we looked at the time and realized we had many hours left! We thought we would be going to another section of the Great Wall but what we ended up doing was so much better than that! First we stopped at a jade market where we got to see tons of jewelry. On our way out we were surprised to find we were also receiving a traditional Chinese lunch that was included in the tour. One family immediately came over to us and grabbed us by the arms excited for us to sit with them, which we happily did. We were given rice, soup, vegetables and an entire fish scales, bones, eyeball, fins, everything! We werent sure how to respond to the fish but the people didnt seem to notice at all. Needless to say I ate a nice bowl of rice and had some soup. It was delicious! After this we made another stop at a dried fruit store which all the Chinese people were going crazy for, purchasing so much of everything, it seemed like candy to them. After that we stopped at an ancient Chinese village which literally appeared as though the people living there were told danger was coming and they immediately just left. It was very interesting to see.
Finally, we stopped at one more place. This stop was by far the most interesting because we had NO idea where the heck we were. When we got off the bus, the four of us were herded by one of the tour leaders (who spoke minimal English) off to the side as the rest of the people got off the bus and headed inside. The tour guide motioned to follow her as she lead us through a dark parking lot towards the only bus that had lights on. She seemed to try to send us on that bus but the driver said no and so she brought us back to where we originally started. We kept trying to ask what was going on but she couldnt understand us. We finally got her to take us to the building so we could use the light of the building to look at our sheet of Chinese sayings to see if those would help us talk to her they did not. However, we found the people standing on the front porch of this building spoke English and were able to translate to her if we could go inside. She finally agreed but had us sit in a room labeled VIP Lounge 16. I left the room to go to the bathroom and on my way there found that as I walked by women would close sliding glass doors with frosted glass as I walked by and stand in front of them. I told my friends this when I got back and we began to wonder even more where we were. We decided to try to go in a room. We all left our VIP Lounge to try to enter a room only to have the same thing happen: a woman close the sliding glass door and step in front of it to block us out. We motioned we wanted to go in only to be told that not only could we not go in but were motioned we had to leave the whole place as well. We kept motioning back and forth, us pointing into the room, the woman pointing at the police officer inside, to us and then outside. Soon our tour guide came out and from the gestures we understood she was saying we were with her and we were to stay but she would take us back to our room. She then took us there and closed the door, leaving us with a woman to guard us inside. We tried to ask her where we were, but she too did not understand. Once the first person from our tour wanted to leave, we were told to leave with them and sit on the bus to wait for the others. We still to this day have absolutely no idea where we were.
Once the tour bus got to Beijing, we set out to find a hostel or hotel. We checked out a few until finally finding one we liked. It was only $10 each and it was so nice!! The next morning we got up extremely early and walked to the top of a hill at a temple that overlooked the Forbidden City to watch the sunrise, a tip we got from the man we met in the train station. It was gorgeous and incredible to see the city wake up and come alive. After that we grabbed some breakfast and coffee at KFC (which has breakfast stuff like McDonalds does at home). Then we explored Tiananmen Square and then headed over to the Forbidden City. Once again we lucked out and happened to encounter an English-speaking tour guide who was a college student about our age. He gave us a lot of really interesting facts about the temple as well as about Chinese life. At this point it was almost time for our trip home so we left to grab some candies and snacks for our train ride before hopping on a bus that took us to the train station. On the bust we met a nice boy about our age who was eager to use his English and offered to take us to where we needed to go in the train station once we got there. Once he showed us where to go he showed us a place to eat as well and then we went our separate ways.
Finally it was time to get on the train. We hopped on and were taken back as to how many people had standing room only seats. Once the train started and things settled down we were able to sit down in the aisle, only to find we had about enough room to sit Indian style in the aisle and that was it. We were packed into the aisle like sardines. We figured it couldnt be so bad, as soon as morning came people would be getting off as soon as morning came. We were so far off in thinking this though. At every stop along the way for 80 percent of the trip MORE people got on at each stop, making us more and more squished each time. Although this sounds terrible, the train ride was actually incredibly fun!!
The train we were in looked nothing like a normal train with airplane or car style seating; instead it was set up with two rows facing each other with a table in-between. There were four people on one side of us and 6 on the other. This set-up was really neat because our car became like a community. After awhile we got bored and took out a deck of cards to start playing. A man nearby motioned he was going to watch us but instead I dealt him into a game of war. Through gestures we were able to explain the rules. After playing for awhile we looked up to find many of the people on the train were watching us intently. People were even standing on their seats to get a better look. We took out another deck and started playing with more people. Eventually when the game of war was over, the man started doing magic tricks for me. After awhile he taught Deirdre and I a new game of cards and then later we taught him yet another one. He was really bright man because the game we taught him was even hard to explain when you can speak. After that cards got old for us but the men at the mans table asked if they could use them to play (through motions only one person around us spoke English and even she spoke very minimal). As it got later in the night, people settled down even more and the people in seats started to sleep. I can barely remember what we did all night but I know we just moved around a lot, getting of the way for one of the train employee who would come through our car screaming things we couldnt understand. Throughout the whole night we all slept about 45 minutes to an hour tops except for Catie who slept the whole night with her head under one set of seats, her torso across the aisle and her feet and legs under the other set of seats. When morning came, families were eating their noodle bowls and fruit and other food they packed as the four of us munched on candy. As the day progressed, everything we took out the people around us were so interested in watching. As I made a bracelet out of string, the people would crouch around me and come closer to see what I was doing. I showed the women and even a few men how to make it. One girl watched me so intently that when I was almost done she motioned to me if she could see it. When I handed it to her she was able to make a row of the bracelet from watching me for so long. The same thing happened when Rachel took out her knitting. Later on when I was writing postcards, the people were even interested in that, trying to mimic with napkins the angle at which I held the postcard to write, which from the look on their face was a definitely an unfamiliar way to do so.
Overall, the train ride was incredible. Later in the day, the magic trick man offered us hardboiled eggs and fried lotus root plants, which we quickly accepted, our teeth hurting from eating so much candy. I had never imagined a train ride being so much fun! We had all thought it was going to be terrible however I ended up loving it as much as I loved the Great Wall. Getting to interact and know the people on the train was an experience we never would have gotten had we not of had standing room only seats. By being right on top of everyone, we were almost forced to interact and get to know those in our immediate surroundings. The people we met were so much fun and genuinely nice. One man allowed us to have his seat for a period time and then gave it to us when he got off the train the next afternoon which was amazing because we got to rotate sitting on it and stretch our legs a bit. All of the people around us tried to help us the best they could with the language barrier. It was an experience I would never take back and hopefully one Ill never forget because of how kind the people were and how enjoyable they made our long, long journey.